How to Grow Tobacco

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 Post subject: Harvesting leaves early
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 1:29 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:38 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Eastern Ontario, Canada
Is there any downside to harvesting leaves a little early? I have a few plants but the aphids have been getting bad recently, and it's gotten to the point where I can't really keep up/nothing works. I've tried hosing them off, squirting them with soapy water, etc, but they keep coming back. I've found a few plants around the yard(non tobaco plants) that were covered in aphids so, I'm going with the aphids have just gotten out of hand around here. Anyways, I want to just pick everything I can that is left so I don't have to deal with aphids any longer/get any more leaf damage. Also because I want to start dedicating my time to other things, like making pipes =).

So needless to say, if the leaf isn't primed/ripe(whichever is the proper term), will there be drawbacks?


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 Post subject: Re: Harvesting leaves early
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 4:32 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 5539
Location: central coast of Kalifornia
I can understand your frustration.

IMO

If you have the skill, or even a predominating interest in making pipes, as opposed to growing your own tobacco, I think you should probably do that and not be stressed out by the problems with growing your own leaf!

Yah, leaf harvested 'before it's time' is never quite what it could have been.
It can be used for cigar wrapper, which is basically for looks, with no flavor that might distract from the blends used in the filler, and perhaps the wrapper. (NOT my personal opinion. Learned from the words of a Cuban Master.)

send me a PM if you wish.
rc


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 Post subject: Re: Harvesting leaves early
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 1:16 pm
Posts: 1572
Location: West Central Fl.
Hi
Most times I controlled aphids with mix of dawn soap and water in spray. Or just hosed them off. did read that if you can eleminate the ants the aphids seem to disappear too.

I did a search and this is what I found that looked good.
All-Purpose Insect Pest Spray
A homemade spray for all-purpose garden pest control.
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spray bottleThis all-purpose garden insect pest control spray combines the repellent effects of garlic, onion, and hot pepper with the insecticidal properties of soap.

For decades the editors of Organic Gardening magazine have collected pest-control remedies and recipes from readers. Several ideas were repeatedly offered as safe, effective insect controls. The editors combined several of these home remedies to make an all-purpose spray out of ingredients found in most kitchens. This spray combines the repellent effects of garlic, onion, and hot pepper with the insecticidal and surfactant properties of soap. Keep in mind that sprays that contain soap may harm natural enemies and pollinating insects. Apply it only to prevent or ease a specific pest problem.

Nowadays, there are also commercial organic sprays that list garlic oil and/or hot pepper as the active ingredient.

Protection Offered
Home gardeners can try homemade all-purpose spray against any leaf-eating pests in the garden, and make a note of what pests are successfully controlled. Certified organic producers should check regulations before using this type of homemade spray.

Precautions
The ingredients can cause painful skin and eye irritation. When preparing and applying, wear rubber gloves and keep the mixture well away from your eyes and nose.

How to Use :roll: :roll: :roll:

Chop, grind, or liquefy one garlic bulb and one small onion.
Add 1 teaspoon of powdered cayenne pepper and mix with 1 quart of water.
Steep 1 hour, strain through cheesecloth, then add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap to the strained liquid; mix well.
Spray your plants thoroughly, including leaf undersides.
Store the mixture for up to 1 week in a labeled, covered container in the refrigerator.



4. Insecticidal Soap
Insecticidal soap contains unsaturated long-chain fatty acids (derived from animal fats) that dissolve the cuticle (skin) of insects. Insecticidal soap sprays are commercially formulated products sold specifically for insect control. (Don't confuse these products with herbicidal soaps, which kill vegetation instead of insects, or household soaps, which are detergents.)

To be effective, the insecticidal soap must come in contact with the insects while it's still liquid—it has no effect after it dries on the plants. Spray only on pests and try to avoid hitting beneficial insects with the spray. Caution: Insecticidal soap can burn some plant leaves. Test each type of plant before spraying the entire plant. Spray a few leaves, then wait 48 hours. If there's no damage, go ahead and spray the entire plant. Don't spray on hot days, and rinse the soap off your plants after a few hours if the plants are receiving a lot of sunshine. If you have hard water, mix the soap with distilled water to help the soap dissolve.

Pests controlled: Insecticidal soap sprays are highly effective against mites, aphids, whiteflies, and other soft-bodied insects as well as the softer nymph stages of some tough-bodied bugs.

5. Oil Sprays
Oil sprays work by suffocating pests. To be effective, the oil spray must hit the pest directly.

Use "dormant" oils to kill insect pest eggs and disease spores on the bare branches of trees and shrubs during the dormant season. To treat growing plants, use a lighter-weight, more refined horticultural oil (called "summer," "supreme," or "superior" oil). Lighter oils evaporate more quickly than dormant oils and are less likely to damage plants.

To avoid plant damage, don't spray any plants suffering from moisture stress. Also, don't spray on very hot days. Test the spray on just a few leaves before you spray the entire plant. Wait 48 hours to make sure no leaf spotting or discoloration occurs.

To minimize potential harm to beneficial insects, limit your spraying to small areas where you can see pests lurking, and leave a couple of unsprayed "refuges" for any good bugs you can't see. Protect nectar-feeding beneficials by not spraying during peak flowering times and by not spraying blossoms. Spray early in the morning, before bees become active. And if you plan to release beneficials, do it after you apply the oil spray.

Pests controlled: Use horticultural oils to combat aphids, mites, beetles, leaf miners, caterpillars, thrips, leafhoppers, and whiteflies.

Hope it helps Lee


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 Post subject: Re: Harvesting leaves early
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2014 2:38 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Eastern Ontario, Canada
I've made 3 pipes so far, actually finishing my fourth tonight.

http://pipesmokersforum.com/community/t ... ipe.40938/
http://pipesmokersforum.com/community/t ... ost-920008
http://pipesmokersforum.com/community/t ... ipe.41810/

Thanks smb, I'll look into that. I've tried hosing them off and the ivory soap in water(which kills them) but they always seem to come back anyways. I think it's because there are quite a few plants with them around the yard. I found a couple weeds that were green...and then suddenly all black, because of all the aphids on them. I know aphids have flying aphids that go around laying offspring on plants so, I'm assuming they're coming from wherever I haven't found them.

I almost tried one recipe I saw online, 3-4 garlic cloves chopped up finely and then let them sit in mineral oil for 24 hours. There was other stuff to do for the mix, but that's not important. Basically I had the garlic sit in the mineral oil for 24 hours and when I got back...someone threw it out. >.<


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 Post subject: Re: Harvesting leaves early
PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 5539
Location: central coast of Kalifornia
...
"and when I got back...someone threw it out. >.<"

I know how that works!
rc


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 Post subject: Re: Harvesting leaves early
PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 4:39 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 1:16 pm
Posts: 1572
Location: West Central Fl.
Hi
from what I read the garlic smell is what does the best/most work. they suggested planting garlic close to plants and spreading garlic pieces around to form a circle around plants.

Most male aphids only fly during the fall to get to females to lay eggs to overwinter for the next year. Aphids are mostly female and bear live larva at 1 week old . so every week you can have new bunch. it is constant problem on going. They do not need male to birth live larva,that become aphids and have more young in one week.

But if you can kill the ants they can not find their way back to plants. Ants are shepherds for aphids . They protect them and milk them and herd them. So kill the ants too. A good ant killer around on ground.


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 Post subject: Re: Harvesting leaves early
PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 7:53 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:36 am
Posts: 45
the only downside I've found to harvesting leaves early is they are harder to dry and have a higher chance of drying green.
I usually just toss em in a pile and let them age a bit more.


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 Post subject: Re: Harvesting leaves early
PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:58 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 26, 2009 1:16 pm
Posts: 1572
Location: West Central Fl.
To me it is like harvesting green apples. Green apples give me a belly ache. Green tobacco makes the pain a lot lower.


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